Return of the Painting Mojo & A Painting Tutorial
Prussian Guard IR15/II battalion. Minden Miniatures. |
Yesterday I finished 22 figures – Minden Miniatures SYW Prussian Guards in tricorn hats (hence the 2nd battalion of the IR15 Guard Regiment). There was a point during the afternoon painting session where I could really feel the painting mojo coming back. The paint was flying off of my brushes.
Close up view of the figures painted so far. |
The figures are being painted as part of a painting challenge, set up by Major General Pettygree, for the month of January. I have to finish the total 32-figure unit by the end of this month. Participating in a painting challenge is a good way to get back into the painting groove.
I had a spare Prussian Zimmerman on hand, already primed, so I painted him as one of the Guards and will place him on the command stand when I get around to basing all of the figures.
The Color Palette Used
Here is a list of the paint colors that I have used on my Prussian Guards. The first color shown is the shade color and the second color is usually my highlight color. Sometimes I will use a third color in a triad, so where three colors are listed, the first color is the shade, the second color is the base, and the third color is the highlight.
Flesh tones:
Red Brown IWM 77-713
Rosy Shade Reaper 09067
Rosy Skin Reaper 09068
Yellow Breeches and Waistcoat:
Rucksack Tan P3 Paint 93062
Moldy Ochre P3 93063
Blue Coat:
Breonne Blue Reaper 09055
True Blue IWM 77-720
Red Facings:
Blood Red Reaper 09003
Fire Red Reaper 09004
Phoenix Red Reaper 09005
Black
I use various craft paints for the black and brown bits. Any item of equipment (gaitors, musket, hair, rucksack, etc) gets an undercoat of black paint. Then I paint the brown color over the black. I sometimes highlight brown colors, but recently I have decided that the musket barrel and fur pack look better without the highlights. I generally do not do highlights for black paint.
And it goes without saying that EVERY METALLIC COLOR should have a black undercoat or else the metal doesn’t pop visually. For example, when you paint a button, paint it black first, and then dot the gold or silver or brass color on top of the black button.
Whites and Greys
I use craft paints for most of my grey tones and any pure white will look good. I use one of the P3 white colors. For cross belts, use a light grey undercoat and then apply the white paint over the grey. White on top of a darker grey doesn’t look very good because the color contrast is too great.
If I want a dirty white color, such as for haversacks and waistcoats/breeches, I use a mid tone of grey as the base and then use the light grey as the highlight color.
Shading and Highlighting
I use a two-color shade & Highlight system for most of my colors (uniforms and brown equipment). Sometimes I will go with the now-traditional shade/base color/highlight triad system, but in my experience, add the third color doesn’t give you much of a payback in the look of the finished figure.
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Autor: Der Alte Fritz / Der Alte Fritz Journal
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